Category: Travel

  • El Cruce Open Water Swim

    El Cruce Open Water Swim

    How hard can it be? It wouldn’t be a big deal, I told myself. A 10k ocean swim sounded like a lot of fun. Sure, it was more than twice as far as I had ever swum in an open water race, but I figured I could just swim slower when I got tired. Old-lady breastroke is very relaxing. Plus second son, Makai, speaks fluent Spanish and was a swimmer in high school. It would be even more fun to do this race with him. And to tourist my way around Cancun with my very own translator. He was really excited about the plan so I signed us both up and then the hubster, (Brandon) and Makai and I headed to Mexico. The race is held every year on Memorial Day weekend. I was so excited that the race included swimming over the underwater museum. The water was beautiful and the underwater museum was a big draw for me. I was captivated by the online photos I found of this sunken art museum.

     

    We went to the Friday night check-in expo, got these nifty shirts, and tickets to the carbo loading dinner at the Hard Rock Cafe. Brandon signed up to be a kayak support for me so we were all pretty excited about our upcoming race party.

    Saturday morning we were up and at the start super early. It was a bit of a pre-race party there, complete with traditional dancers on the beach. The men started first which means Makai left five minutes before me. I didn’t see him again for nearly four hours.

     

    Here’s a race description from the Global Swim Series website: “To start the 10k race you wade into the warm, crystal clear waters of the Mexican Caribbean on the shore of Cancun and swim towards Isla Mujeres (Isle of Women). And just when you are finishing the race and are thoroughly exhausted, you will get a great pick-me-up! You will swim right over the unbelievable underwater museum! The museum was commissioned as an exceptionally creative and artistic way to build an artificial reef. You will swim right over 500+ stunning and detailed statues that were carefully placed at the bottom of the ocean for you to see and for coral to grow on, creating a whole new ecosystem. Given the clarity of the water and the shallow depth these works of art can actually be seen as you are swimming in the race.”

    My real life race description had a few less exclamation points in it.

    The kayak supporters were either volunteers that helped anyone in need, or they had paid a chunk of cash so that they could support one particular swimmer. Brandon paid so that he could stay with me during the entire race. Unfortunately, I didn’t see him until the very end of the race. The kayakers put in down the beach and then had to wait for their swimmers quite a ways from where we started. The women were sent off and I felt great for the first five minutes swimming out to the kayakers.

    Then I spent the next fifteen or twenty minutes searching for Brandon. The swells were big so it was difficult to see anything other than walls of water. I bobbed around scanning the kayakers trying to find him, but never did. Many of the swimmers were calling out to their support so it was a little strange to be bobbing around in the midst of a large group of people trying to find each other. The waves tossed me around and I ended up swallowing sea water. After the last swimmer passed me and I was seemingly alone, I gave up on finding Brandon and just started swimming. He had figured I wouldn’t wait at the start and that I had somehow gotten past him so he started paddling toward Isla Mujeres. After about 30 minutes of swimming with big waves, my stomach rejected the salt water and I started throwing up. It was unpleasant. I was vomiting, treading water and trying to push the floating particles away from me. I had the ringing ears and dizziness that usually accompanies vomiting and I could, for a moment, imagine how easy it would be to just drown in the ocean.

    I swam another half an hour and felt the nausea build as I plodded along. I desperately wished I could get out of the water. I looked longingly at the beach I had started from. It was far away. I looked longingly at the island I was heading for. It was even further away. It was discouraging to feel so sick while treading water in what felt like the middle of the ocean. I wondered how I ever could have considered this a fun undertaking. I put my head down and resumed swimming. When I passed a support boat I wanted to quit but I knew they wouldn’t take me to land during the race. I figured it would feel worse to be tossed around on the anchored boat than in the ocean so I just stopped and asked for water. They threw me a bottle which I caught. After taking a few sips I recapped the bottle and tucked it into the back of my swim suit. I didn’t come across another support boat for the remaining two hours of my ordeal. I sometimes worry about sharks while swimming in the ocean. Especially when I’m in “the deep end.” But there were a few times during this race that I actually prayed a shark would come by and put me out of my misery. Alas, there were none to be had.

    After a solitary 30 minute swim, I started vomiting again. A female swimmer accompanied by her female kayaker came by and took pity on me. The kayaker told me to hang on to the cord on the back until I felt better. She then resumed paddling and dragged me for a minute or two until I could get my bearings. I was extremely grateful. I felt good and swam smoothly until the nausea returned. Then I did another vomit and get dragged during recover stint. Then I swam another 30 or 45 minutes until I was sick again. It was slow going. Toward the end of the race I swam over a few statues in the underwater museum. I didn’t even care, I just wanted out. I plan to return some day to really explore it.

    The last mile was close to shore and had a lovely current pushing me toward the finish line. I happily body surfed toward the finish line. Ten minutes before I finished I found Brandon who had had his own adventures paddling his kayak. He finished along side me after having saved a few lives along the way. After a long 3 hours and 45 minutes,  I was extremely happy to get back on dry land. Makai had finished about 30 minutes earlier and was waiting for me at the finish line. He also had gotten sea sick along the way but never saw a single support boat. He also swam an extra mile or so by getting off track at the end where the swimmers were to turn to the left and follow the coast line. We both agreed it was a pretty miserable morning. There was a big hot lunch buffet for the swimmers following the race but neither Makai or I wanted to eat. We were still waiting for our stomachs to settle. We just waited in line for the ferry to take us back to Cancun.

    The next time I catch the flu or something, and find myself throwing up, I will just remind myself that it could be worse. I could be vomiting while treading water in the middle of the ocean! Silver linings.

    After recovering from our race ordeal, we relaxed before going into full tourist mode. What a beautiful and fascinating place. And one day, after I have forgotten the amount of misery involved, I will swim that race again.

  • Milos Explorer Swim Trek

    Milos Explorer Swim Trek

    After having gone on two swim treks, I must say they are my favorite vacations. To spend hours in the big, blue sea in as safe a manner as possible and still get wet, to experience new cultures, sights, smells and sounds, to taste the best food a passionate person has to offer, to discover new old friends, and to have a good book on the plane is my cup of tea.

     

     

     

     

  • The Other Side of Lamma Island

    The Other Side of Lamma Island

    The Lamma Island Family trail is a beautiful, popular hike that usually ends up at The Sok Kwu Wan fishing village at one of the many sea food restaurants. On weekends and holidays the trail is crowded but still worth the adventure. Most people start by taking a ferry from Central Pier 4, on Hong Kong Island, to Yung Shue Wan on Lamma Island. The trail starts from the ferry pier, is paved, and well-marked in both English and Chinese.  We hiked another hour or so, through tiny villages until we ended up on the other side of the island. We’ve been out there a few times and rarely see anyone else. Which is a pity because I find it to be the most beautiful, rugged landscape on the island. The contrast of fluid water and huge stone outcroppings reminded me of The Baths, but with fewer people. The water is darker, and appears to be an ideal spot for hungry sharks or sea monsters to hide in.

    When we approached the boulders, there were a few stray dogs sunning themselves on the rocks. As we got closer they trotted off and hid themselves in the brush. We climbed up and over and explored mother Nature’s magnificent work.

    We had brought our snorkeling equipment and slid into the water from a steep section of stone. The water was deep and dark with currents pulling us this way and that. From beneath the surface, the water truly looked like an ideal spot for hungry sea monsters so after a nervous 20-minutes snorkeling adventure, we got out-alive and well.

    We stopped at the little homespun café along the trail for a drink and a bowl of mango pudding. Then we hiked back to Sok Kwu Wan for a proper lunch at the famous Rainbow Seafood restaurant. It was pretty quiet on that Tuesday afternoon and I found it hard to believe it was the same place that was bursting with people over the weekend. Hong Kong is so densely populated it is a joy to find beautiful, tranquil places without a lot of people. The trip to the other side of Lamma Island is definitely worth the hike.

  • The Baths in Virgin Gorda

    The Baths in Virgin Gorda

    Thirty-five years ago, my sister Audrey saw a magazine photograph of model in a beautiful location. She was standing in green/blue water surrounded by giant, granite boulders, with shafts of sunlight reflecting on the water. Audrey was so captivated by this photograph that she tore it out and tucked it away in her journal. After we signed up for the SwimTrek in the British Virgin Islands, she was reading through the information that listed our itinerary. There was something mentioned about visiting the Baths. She did a bit of research and saw online photographs. The images jogged a memory of her saving a beautiful photograph while she was still in her teens. She became convinced that this was the same place and searched through all her old journals. She found the magazine picture and was delighted to discover that indeed, we were already scheduled to see this magical place. I’d never even heard of the Baths but I loved the story she told me.

    On the third day of our swim trek we boated near the beach and swam to shore. Then we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring this magical place of intense beauty.

    Exploring the Baths is like reliving a happy childhood. We swam in the ocean, played in the sand, scampered around boulders and climbed ladders into mother nature’s forts.

     

     

     

     

    After exploring and following a trail through openings in the granite, we ended up at the Poor Man’s bar for ice-cream. (The grownups in the group enjoyed a beer on the beach.) We sat around the shaded pavilion, enjoying our snacks and watched the chickens pass by. I believe a few handstand were executed along the way.

    I still find it amazing that Audrey ended up visiting her magical place 35 years after saving that magazine page. I’m so grateful that I got to tag along for the ride because it really is a magical place. If you ever see an image of a beautiful place that calls to you, save that image. Store it away and figure out how to get there. You’ll be surprised at how things will fall into place and you will end up exactly where you need to be.

  • Swim Trek in the British Virgin Islands

    Swim Trek in the British Virgin Islands

    Swim in the wild ocean twice a day, in a outrageously beautiful location, with guides/lifeguards to assist you and keep you safe, with a small group of adventurous like-minded water lovers? Sign me up! I’d seen ads for Swim Trek vacations for years and always wanted to do one. They organize swimming trips all over the world with a variety of distances, locations and water temperatures. Then out of the blue-probably at 2am on a sleepless, internet surfing night-I took the plunge. I signed up for the British Virgin Island adventure in March of 2017.

    I planned to go alone but my sister, Audrey, heard of my adventure and decided to join in. She has never been a competitive swimmer but had about four months to prepare. Swim Trek offers a training schedule to ensure you are ready to go the distance while on a swim trek.

    Home base for the 15 swimmers and two swim guides was at the beautiful Leverick Bay Resort on Virgin Gorda. We met every morning for a hearty breakfast prepared by the guides, Kelly and John. Then we got ready for the day and boarded Ben’s boat (with boat crew member Shon) for a new adventure. We swam every morning then had a picnic lunch usually on some lovely little island.

     

     

     

    We then had a stretch of rest and relaxation before hitting the water again. Every day was different and included scenic coastal swims, shipwrecks, “aquarium” swims, cave explorations and island to island crossings. One afternoon we explored the Baths, an incredibly beautiful mix of granite boulders, vegetation and beautiful water. (I’ll write a post on that excursion.) The final day included an international crossing from the British Norman Island to the US Flanagan Island. It was only about an hour’s swim so it was actually easier than some of the other longer swims. We weren’t allowed to actually get on the uninhabited island because we didn’t have our passports with us. Which seemed a little silly to me since the only thing on the island was an assortment of birds. But I decided to be a good  sport and  follow the rules.

    We were divided into three different groups according to ability and each groups had it’s own boat and guide watching over us. They were great to keep us on course and stop us every 20 or 30 minutes for a water/gatorade break. After every morning swim there would be snacks waiting for us on the boat. It was great to have a cookie or piece of fresh fruit to get the ocean salt taste out of your mouth. Oreo cookies have never tasted better in my life.

     

    One day following  our afternoon swim some of  us had the boat crew drop us off on a different part of Virgin Gorda so we could  walk to the restaurant, CocoMaya. If I ever fell off a cruise ship and had to swim to shore, this is where I’d want to wash up. There were lovely couches on the beach to enjoy the stunning scenery, a firepit, gorgeous lighting, a bench seat at the bar, excellent service, and mother nature’s finest. I would call it the best grownup clubhouse in the world. The food was on par with everything else. Well worth the trek out there and the taxi ride back to the resort.

     

    During one of our morning swims we passed by a fairly shallow shipwreck. It was easy to swim down to.

     

    Later on in the week we explored an older, larger, more famous shipwreck. It was harder to swim to because of the depth. I loved going down but couldn’t stay long once I swam there. Definitely a place to visit if you are a scuba diver. Here is what I learned from Google:

    Located just off the coast of Salt island, the wreck of the RMS Rhone, is the BVI’s most famous dive site. The RMS Rhone was a 310 feet long British packet ship owned by the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company. She was wrecked off the coast of Salt Island in the British Virgin Islands on October 29, 1867 during a category 3 hurricane.

    While attempting to reach open seas to ride out the storm the ship ran aground on Salt Island’s Black Rock Point.  When cool seawater made contact with the ships burning hot boilers the ship exploded and split into two sections.  With passengers strapped into their bunks by crew, seemingly to protect them during the storm, 123 of the ship’s 146 passengers went down with the ship.  The bow section settled in 80 feet of water, the stern rests just 30 feet below the surface.

    The Rhone is now a popular dive site.  The area around her was turned into a national park in 1967.  The Rhone has received a number of citations and awards over the years as one of the top recreational wreck dives in the Caribbean.  It is highly regarded both for its historical interest and for the site’s abundance of marine life.

     

     

     

     

     

    It was fun getting to know the other  swimmers who had come from all over the world for their swimming adventure. My idea of paradise is hanging out all day on or in the water accompanied by sunny, warm weather. I was a happy camper all week.

  • Hiking on Lamma Island

    Hiking on Lamma Island

    I just spent a month in Hong Kong on Lamma Island, which is one of my favorite places. This little island is blissfully clear of cars and has a quaint, relaxed feel. The hiking here doesn’t have all the stairs and steep climbs that can be found on Hong Kong Island but you can still get a good workout in. My morning routine consists of walking or jogging ten minutes from our apartment to the Hung Shing Ye beach. If you’re coming from Hong Kong Island, you will most likely take the ferry from Central to the Yung Shue Wan ferry pier. From the pier you can get onto the Family Trail which will go right past this beach as well. This was taken mid week but it can get quite crowded. I feel like this is my island during the week but I have to share it on weekends and holidays.

    I like to swim at this beach because of the shark nets and because it’s close to home. Just past this beach you can continue on the Family Trail. During the summer it wasn’t fun to go first thing in the morning because then you would be the one breaking through all the spider webs spun across the path. But in October/November the webs were gone.

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    After the first bit of climbing you will reach a lookout section with a large map of the island’s trails and roads.
     
     
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    Keep going past the lookout/map and you’ll get to a place near the top of the mountain where you can curve to the right and continue on the Family Trail toward Suk Kwu Wan. The road from here is mostly downhill and flat so if you want to burn calories you need to start running.
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    You’ll travel across the top of this mountain for a bit and get a good view of the other side. The photo below shows the village Suk Kwu Wan where weekenders like to walk and enjoy a meal at the famous seafood restaurants along the shore. The photos I took on this day are pretty cloudy because a storm was coming in. I waited until my last day to take pictures so poor lighting is the price I paid for procrastination. The first time I saw this view I thought of Kevin Costner in Waterworld.
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    Just before you reach another tiny village you will come across this message painted on the road:
     
     
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    Don’t feel too bad, it’s not a comment on your running style or your mental acuity. It’s just a warning that the road will take a steep dip and a sharp turn into the village ahead. Where you will be delighted to see the famous Pink and Purple Pig Palace.
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    It will take you approximately two minutes to walk through this village and then you will reach another fork in the road.  Stay to the left to continue on the Family Trail. Or go up the stairs to the right for Lo So Shing beach, my favorite swimming spot.
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    As soon as you climb the stairs you will see some public bathrooms. 
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    I’m not sure where the stairs on the right go. I am saving  these mystery stairs for another day. Just past the bathrooms the road becomes a dirt trail. This used to be my favorite part of the trip but I’ve seen five snakes in the past two weeks of hiking so I’m more comfortable on the wider concrete roads now.
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    But it’s a very pretty trail that leads to an even prettier beach. Last summer Zoe and I would hike out here in the mornings. She always had to lead because she could see the spider webs better than I could and she would tell me when to duck. Then we would swim out to the floating dock to cool off before we headed home again.
     
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    Below is a photo of the village with the Pink and Purple Pig Palace. This is the view coming from the opposite direction (on my way home.) 
     
    If you’ve gotten this far you can see why I enjoy exploring Lamma Island. It’s a beautiful and fascinating place. Don’t let the snakes bother you, I’m sure there’s plenty of room for all of us.
    This is the three-footer who was in the middle of the street right outside my apartment when I left to take these photos. We stared at each other for a moment until I looked away to get my phone ready for a photo. He seized that opportunity to slither across the street and escape in the gutter. 

     

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  • Turkey Swim – Hawaii Open Water Swim

    Turkey Swim – Hawaii Open Water Swim

    I will use just about any excuse to go to Hawaii but I have to say, this was a great one! On Saturday, November 22 I took the bus from our beachfront hotel to the Ala Moana park where the race was held. It was a gorgeous day. (Is there any other kind in Hawaii?) The Turkey Swim is held in a protected bay so it is a great race if you’re new to open water swimming. I wasn’t worried about sharks and it was much calmer than the Waikiki Rough Water Swim race held on Labor Day.

    I noticed quite a few school-aged swimmers and assumed the local club teams had come out for a workout. After the race I talked to some of the youth and they told me it was actually a school PE assignment. How great is that? I wish we had done open water swims in my high schools. It seems a little more challenging/exciting than dodge ball.

    I tried a new approach this time and I actually got in and warmed up before the race. The race distance wasn’t very far (only 2K) and it was a straight out and back. It felt as smooth as a swimming pool and I had no trouble swimming in a straight line. Since I was all warmed up I worked my way to the front of the pack for the start. When the gun sounded I sprinted out ahead to avoid the chaos. I swam a fast 200 meters or so before I settled down into a nice, smooth pace. The race wasn’t too crowded which made it nice. I kept a steady pace and was grateful for the fast start. This race strategy worked and I ended up getting first in my age group in 34:18. I called hubby afterwards and told him I had won my age group which of course means I need to come back next year to defend my title!


    Female 45 to 49

    Place Name City Bib No Age Overall Total Time
    1 SANDI SMITH 241 49 52 34:18.5
    2 BRIDGET VELASCO KAHULUI HI 269 48 106 39:06.0
    3 MARY BEUST KAILUA HI 17 45 163 42:45.2
    4 SHANNON FORTNER HONOLULU HI 376 45 262 53:42.6
    5 J. GARCIA 337 46 286 1:09:03.9
  • Juliano and I

    Juliano and I

    Renee (my fabulous friend), Soup and Monica (two of my three incredible sisters) and I made a quick trip to LA. We had a great visit with my brother, Andy, and then headed off to crash the Craig Ferguson party at NBC studios. I’m not much of a TV person and had actually never heard of the guy but was excited about being in the audience during a taping. After being “warmed up” and coached on how to be a fantastic audience (they bribed us with chocolate) we watched them put a show together. I’m a fan now. That Craig guy is one funny dude. Thanks, Renee, for getting the tickets.

    After we checked into our hotel in Santa Monica, we explored the neighborhood. We had a great dinner at True Foods and soaked up the artistic, funky atmosphere near the pier.

    Before going to California I had researched some raw restaurants in the area in hopes of trying one out. I wrote down a list of five or six and their locations but then left the list on my desk at home.

    Early the next morning I was drifting in and out of sleep when I suddenly remembered that one of the raw food restaurants was located on Broadway in Santa Monica. I didn’t know which one but realized we had walked down Broadway the night before. I jumped out of bed, eager to start my quest. Monica heard me get up and offered to go with me. So, with about 5 minutes of primping (looking gorgeous in my sweats) we were off on our adventures.

    We walked about ten minutes and found Planet Raw Cafe with the front door wide open, awaiting our arrival. We entered and I explained to the man on the computer that we knew they weren’t open yet but wanted to look at their menu. He kindly gave us the menus and allowed us to sit and peruse. Halfway through the menu I saw references to Juliano and excitedly asked the man if this was perhaps Juliano’s restaurant. (I have read about the famous raw food chef.) He said, “I’m Juliano” which immediently sent me into geeky fan mode.
    “You’re Juliano? REALLY? I’ve read so much about you!”
    Then Monica chimed in, “Picture time!” which was great because although it NEVER crosses my mind, she’s really good about getting pictures of everything. He was gracious and accommodating and spent time explaining the benefits of raw food to us. When I complained to him about my cookie downfall he brought out two chocolate coconut raw cookies for us to sample. Delicious!

    Monica and I eventually let him get back to his work and made our way to the beach. I happily remembered how the ocean soothes my soul and made a note to get there more often.

    Suzy and Renee were game to try the Planet Raw with us at lunch which was no small sacrifice given the abundance of incredible restaurants around.

    It was a new experience for Renee to have an extensive menu in hand where every single item was gluten free. We ordered four different entrees and the avocado chocolate pudding to share. (It sounds weird but is really good.) They gave us a complimentary appetizer sampler plate and we were oohing and aahing our way all through lunch. The best part was how good we all felt afterwards. Or maybe it was the chocolate pudding. Possibly it was the kelp noodles with a wonderfully flavored, creamy sauce. It’s hard to say. But we did feel energized after eating that delicious food.

    I could easily be a raw foodist if Juliano would just move into my house for while and take over the food prep!

    Of course It never occurred to me to take any pictures of the food but that only means we will need to return. The sooner the better.